Emerald, May's birthstone, has been prized for thousands of years for
its lush green hues and rare beauty. Throughout the ancient world,
emerald symbolized eternal hope, rebirth and the arrival of spring - and
some cultures believed the gem rewarded its owners with love,
intelligence and eloquence as well.
The ancients ascribed numerous magical and mystical properties to
this most precious of green gems. In ancient Rome, for example,
emeralds were believed to have a soothing effect on the soul. Modern
scientists have since shown this myth to have some basis in fact: tests
indicate that the human eye is more sensitive to green than any other
color. Middle Age seers used emeralds to foretell the future, as well as
to ward off evil spirits and cure ailments ranging from bad eyesight to
infertility. The stone was also said to improve memory and bring great
wealth to its wearer.
Derived from the Latin word for green,
"smaragdus", emerald is also the traditional gift of choice for couples
celebrating their 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.
The finest
emeralds have traditionally come from Colombia; both the Incas and
Aztecs mined rich emerald deposits in the rugged Andes Mountains. But
Russia's Ural Mountains also have produced top-quality gems. Brazil is
by far the world's largest producer of emerald, with a wide range of
quality. Other sources for the stone include Afghanistan, Australia,
India, Pakistan, the United States, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Emeralds
come in a variety of light and dark shades of green - and often with
subtle background hues of other colors like yellow, blue, brown or gray.
Generally, the purer and richer the green, the more valuable the
emerald. The gem ranks 7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale. This means that
emerald, while relatively hard, can still be scratched, chipped or
split fairly easily. Most emeralds have numerous flaws, or "inclusions",
which weaken their structure. Flawless emeralds are exceptionally rare,
and therefore command great prices (in some instances, higher than
diamonds).
When shopping for emeralds, keep in mind that the gems
are judged by size, color, clarity and cut (although because of the
stone's penchant for inclusions, a lesser clarity is acceptable - as
long as light is still reflected through the gem). Color is extremely
important, and is broken down into three considerations: hue (the basic
color of the stone, including any tints other than green); tone (the
"depth" of color, ranging from "light" to "dark"); and saturation (the
purity of the green and the level of other hues, if present).
Fissures,
or cracks, are common in emeralds. Try to avoid those that penetrate
too deeply into the stone, thus making it more susceptible to splitting.
Like
most gemstones in the market today, emeralds are usually treated in
some way to remove surface flaws and enhance color. The most common (and
acceptable) technique is to oil the stone with a green-tinted oil to
fill in surface cracks. The oil hardens and strengthens the stone, and
improves its green color as well.
In caring for your emerald,
avoid ultrasonic cleaners that can remove the oil, or harsh cleansers
that can damage its relatively soft surface. Clean with a soft, damp
cloth and warm water, and a soft bristle brush if needed. The gem has
been known to crack when exposed to extreme temperatures, so keep this
in mind when wearing your emerald. Regularly check that setting prongs
aren't loose or cracked, and have a jeweler re-oil every few years.
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